S-Foils to Attack Position- Part 5- Boba Fett!

I wasted no time in getting paint onto Fett as fast as possible. Like many people he’s my favourite character from Star Wars- despite being pretty damn incompetent when it comes to fighting blind people, he’s still an absolute badass.

I did as much research as I could into colour schemes for the Slave I during the Rebellion Era- unfortunately the FFG artwork is pretty small and dark so it’s hard to get a good idea of colours from that. Hopefully I got it pretty close, I’m interested to know your thoughts!

I used a pretty specialist weathering technique on the model, where you airbrush the model with a base colour (in the case of the red areas, the basecoat was cream), seal with matt varnish, coat with hairspray (yes, hairspray!), airbrush with the top colour (in the case of the red areas, red!), then using a damp toothbrush you can scrub away the layer of hairspray to provide the really cool weathering effect and bring the cream out from underneath. The way the hairpray dissolves creates the kind of “chipped” appearance which is exactly what you want. The final stage is to seal with matt varnish again.

Fett (1)

Fett (2)

Fett (3)

Fett (4)

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S-Foils to Attack Position- Part 4- Element Games Tournament! @ElementGames_

Hi guys,

Last Friday I made the trip down to Stockport’s North West Gaming Centre, home of Element Games. Element were running their inaugural X-Wing tournament, “It’s a Trap!”.

Unfortunately in my extreme excitement I forgot to take any photos during the event, but needless to say I had three fantastic games, and managed to win 2nd Place overall!

I also managed to win the “Best Painted Squad” award, which came down to a close decision between my squad and a beautifully painted Royal Guard themed Interceptor Squad.

The event went extremely smoothly, with some great little awards and freebies, and Element Games are planning to make these events a monthly occurrence. I’ll certainly be there for every one I can make, so hopefully see you there sometime in the future! Tickets are already available for their next event on the evening of Friday 29th August, http://elementgames.co.uk/event-tickets/its-a-trap-x-wing-tournament-from-element-games

Here’s all the swag I managed to come home with! Event exclusive Academy TIE and Biggs cards, FFG acrylic bomb tokens, limited edition card box, Slave I and a Z-95 Headhunter! I was a rather happy boy in the car home.


Here’s some photos of my finished squad for the event:

Squad (1)

Squad (2)

Squad (3)

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S-Foils to Attack Position- Part 3- Flying Stands

Another quick update…

In the last couple of days I finished the first of my modified flight stands. I decided that I wanted to use brass rod for my stands- it’s thinner, and less noticeable, I have more control over the length, and its stronger. I also don’t have to worry about losing the pegs etc.

The mod was pretty simple. I filled the original hole in the base with greenstuff, and made sure I trimmed away any excess so that the number tokens still fitted into the slots. Once it was fully cured, I could drill a hole and add my brass rod.

The mechanis, for attaching the ships is very simple. The rod itself is 2mm brass rod. Over the top I slipped a small sleeve cut from 3mm brass tube. This fits perfectly over the 2mm rod, and allows a 2mm rare earth (neodymium) magnet to be set into the top. Under the ship itself I glued another magnet. Finally, a small pin was added to the back of each stand, and a slightly larger (than the pin) hole was drilled behind the magnet in each ship. This pin prevents the ship spinning on the magnet and facing the wrong way on it’s base!

As you can see, once they are all sprayed black (and the edges of the ship tokens have been coloured black with a Sharpie) they look pretty slick- I’m extremely happy with the results.

What do you think?

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Vidpui’s Adepta Sororitas – Sisters of the Pure Morning Part 3

The final part of this army, for now, and the best! The showcase for the minis :)

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So the army all together. the colours all tie together and gives it a strong vibrant look. I’ve been asked to add to this force but that’ll be later on in the year. The Canoness was one of my favorites to paint, Ill have to get one for myself to add to the pile lol. Also included a picture of the limited edition Necromunda Bounty Hunter and Inquisitor that have conscripted this Sisters of Battle force into helping them.

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Next up the core units. Simple and easily painted but they do still look good on the custom bases. Just hope that the seraphims don’t fall over to much lol The Repentia Squad, with there reversed scheme fit in nicely while still being different.

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The Penitent Engine, once again a simple main colour scheme but the details really make it come together and make a good mini. It is basically silver with blobs of red and white.

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Finally, the Living Saint, Celestine herself. I enjoyed painting this mini, mainly because I thought the wings would be trouble. Turned out but keep it simple and finding a scheme to copy it went smoothly.

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Well, that all for the sisters for now, and its on to Wood Elves and Chaos Dwarfs next for me!

Thanks for looking.


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How to win Army Awards (Almanac of Ming) – Part 2

Welcome back to Part 2! If you’ve not read the first part, you really should go back and read it first.

Note that in this article, only two models were painted by me (Jules le Jongleur & the Questing Paladin). Reason being is I have no examples of my own for certain areas!

1)      Conversions and Centrepieces

Most painting prizes aren’t separated by technical ability or coolness factor. More commonly, they are player voted and the rule-of-cool usually reigns supreme. You get at most a few minutes looking at an army on display and usually can’t pick up the models to admire fine detail. What this means, is that the army needs two key things; 1) to attract their attention and 2) to look good from a distance and as a whole (which we’ve covered in Part 1).

The best way to turn heads, is by having centrepieces.


           Converted Lammasu by Jon Kerr

People may argue about the need for this, but more often than not, an army with a stunning large centerpiece would pick up more votes.

Does this mean you need to include a gribbly? Not quite. I’ve seen some finely done models in the midst of a duel (often with one in the air for height), or perhaps unit fillers that stand taller than the rest of the army.

So now you’ve brought them over. They’re admiring your paintwork (remember, it’s how good it looks as a whole, not what fancy, high level techniques you’ve used) but are ready to move on to the next army on display. Besides painting skill, what else makes an army stand out? Conversions.

It’s another of my weak points which I’m trying to work on (so proud of Sir Quest-a-Lot below!), but a few models or units converted here, some cool kit-bashes there, really does help to make an army memorable.


People will spend more time looking at the models, thinking, wow, how was that made?  Good conversions also help reinforce the theme you’re going for.

2)      Appeal

Another thing I noticed that helps wins votes is whether it resonates with the voters. This changes from tournament to tournament and player to player, but a few common trends I’ve noticed:

Ol Skool – OOP models in modern paintjobs, or specially converted models to resemble discontinued favourites. The response is huge, people love to see it done well, it’s like meeting an old friend all over again.


Artwork/References – managed to replicate a piece of well-recognised art in the army books? Instant fame!


                                 Grimgor by Jon Kerr

Fits in the WH universe – this one has a strong weighting at WHW tourneys and among purists, but is contrasted by…

Wacky themes (e.g. movie, game or comic references) – like Marmite, this can be a love/hate affair, but it can swing votes drastically.

3)            Go for tourneys.

Such an obvious point really! I never thought I’d enjoy tournaments but it’s such a great social event. Getting to see other lovely armies in the flesh is great and playing against them is even better!

4)            Feedback

At all stages, constructive criticism goes a long way in improving your army. The hard bit is actually applying it. Improvements can often take a lot of effort and sometimes you may feel that your way is better. Try not to be stubborn and remember that if others have an opinion, it’s likely that a fair number of others will share it too. This means you could lose a number of votes if you don’t rectify it.

A little tip would be to fix the main things first and try not to worry about the fine detail. Again, army painting is about the overall effect and any feedback received would likely be about the obvious things.


So to recap, once you’ve got a good strong idea/theme and know how to paint it well, add some conversions and eye-catching centerpieces, ask around whether it works or doesn’t. Then bring your completed army to the tourney scene and hopefully you’d snag some prizes! I’ll leave it here for now, but stay tuned for Part 3 where I add a final few tips and random bits. Thanks for reading!


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S-Foils to Attack Position- Part 2- The Republic Fleet

A quick update with what I’ve been up to!

I have plans to paint up a Republic Clone Fighter Squadron using alternate minis, simply using the Rebel cards for the rules etc.

I managed to pick up these alternate Arc-170s to count as X-Wings proxys, and V-Wings to count as A-Wing proxys.

I’ve also been working on my transportation method. This is simply a sheet of galvanised steel in the bottom of a stackable storage box. The compartment tray has magnets set into it, so it can be lifted out and placed on the table for easy access to tokens during games.

I also picked up a Revell Venator-class Star Destroyer on eBay. The plan is to paint it as a brusied and battered old battleship from the Clone Wars. That way I can use it in a few ways:
-as a wreckage for terrain to make the table look pretty
-as an objective, as if the Rebels were trying to activate an old abandoned battleship to serve in the War. I plan to have an insert for the base which has specific ship component areas (eg/ engines, bridge, bow, sheild generator, etc) so I can create missions to destroy each section of the ship.
-as an actual ship in massive games, with custom rules, to run alongside my Republic clone fighter squadron!

All it took was to knock up a quick base from brass rod and thick plasticard!

Let me know what you think :)

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S-Foils to Attack Position- Part 1: Jon’s tumble into X-Wing!

I’ve been aware of the X-Wing Miniatures Game for around 12 months now and have avoided it at all costs in an attempt to avoid getting hooked. Unfortunately someone happened to show me the pictures of RodentMastermind’s work and I couldn’t resist any longer.

A friend of mine offered to give me an intro game, which was awesome, after which she said she was going on holiday for two weeks and offered to lend me her whole X-Wing collection while she was away!
10+ games later…. I’m hopelessly addicted!

So far I’ve purchased the Core Set, an extra X-Wing, a TIE: Advanced and a TIE: Defender. I currently have on order an additional Core Set, and also some SSB Arc-170’s and V-Wings which I plan to paint up and use as a Republic “proxy” squadron, counting them as X-Wings and A-Wings! Should be fun.

In the mean time- here are some WIP repaints (again, totally inspired by Rodent Mastermind!)

I’ve also been working on some Asteroids, using Instamould to recast sections of some ships.

Let me know what you think!

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Vidpui’s Adepta Sororitas – Sisters of the Pure Morning Part 2

Hi, again. In this second part of the Battle sisters I’ll concentrating on how I painted the Nuns with Guns.

I like to keep things simple, mainly as I don’t have the time to over complicate paint jobs. A good way for that is to use a colour spray primer if, like me, you don’t have an airbrush. Games Workshop make a few different colours, I’d always get Skull White from them, Army Painter have a greater range of colours, and some other manufacturers too. These colour primers are a great, not to mention quick way, to get your primary colour done in one go. You can use green for orks or dark angels, red for bloodletters or blood angels etc.

So after cleaning the minis and sticking them on to the bases I primed them with Army Painter Skeleton Bone primer. This gives good coverage and a good base for the bone armour. Next I gave the whole mini a wash of slightly thinned GW Seraphim Sepia (just add a touch of water to help it flow more and not be too dark). This would give the minis the basic shadows.

 photo wip1_zps390055b9.jpg

Next I drybrushed, yes I said “drybrushed”, the armour. It’s quick and is suited to the bone armour effect I wanted. So I stared with a heavy DB of GW Bleached Bone all over. Keep the model upright and try to catch as much of it as you can. Then I followed this by a couple more drybrushes of GW Bleached Bone and VMC Ivory, adding more Ivory for each layer. The final dry brush of pure Ivory at the end, and the armour is done! (see 1st pic).

Next, on to the reds. This is simply layers of VMC burnt cadmium red with GW Evil Sunz Scarlet for highlights and a very thin edge highlight of GW Wild Rider Red at the end. This was followed by a wash of GW Baal Red, or any dark red, to help blend the reds together. (2nd Pic above)

Finally the silvers. These were base coated GW Leadbleacher, followed by a wash of VMC Smoke and a wash of Nuln Oil. The metals were then highlighted with Leadbleacher once dry. (see 3rd pic above). I used this method to paint the walker as well. Then any details were painted at the end. Brown with 2 washes of Agrax Earth for leathers, and some GW Shinning Gold for the gold.

 photo wip2_zps51562612.jpg

Celestine was a little different as she’s special. I primed it with some Liquitex Brown spray all over, the used the AP Skeleton bone from a shallow angle so it didn’t catch the shadows. (4th picture).

Then I layered the bone armour rather than dry brushing it, using the same colours as the normal sisters but added a edge highlight of pure Skull white at the end. I added an extra wash with Agrax earth in the deep shadows to get them really dark. (5th pic)

With the gold, I basecoaedt this with VGC Brassy brass, highlighted Auric Armour Gold, and some points of pure VAC Chrome. Then it’s given a thin wash of Reikland Flesh and Druchii violet to give it some pizzaz! You might want to re-highlight some parts just to get a bit of a shine back. (6th pic).

 photo wip3_zps7d73b28d.jpg

I was stuck on what to do with the wings, so I googled some images to get some inspiration. I eventually found some great looking wings, with the same colours I had used for Celestine (see pic7). A little bit of Photoshop magic and I had a clear idea of what to do with them lol

Pic 8 shows the finished reds, done in the same way as outlined above, just with more layers to get the blending really smooth.

Then on to the face (pic 9). I started with Tallarn flesh and washed it twice with Reikland flesh. This gives a good deep colour. Re-highlighted it with Tallarn flesh and highlighted by adding VMC Ivory. This is finished by a very thin glaze of Reikland flesh all over. Thank the Emperor shes got her eyes closed so I didn’t have to paint them!

That’s it, everything painted up. Next time some pictures of the finished Sisters.



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How to win Army Awards (in which Ming learnt the hard way) – Part 1

It’s the promised guide you’ve been waiting for! I’m breaking this into  a number of parts, hopefully making it perfect lunch reading material.

So let’s start, how would one be able to create an award-winning army?

1)      Choosing an Army

Go with your heart. If you’re attracted to it, you’ll definitely put in the effort to make it something you’d be proud of.

I had my eye set on Brets from the start, despite knowing how difficult it would be to paint, which leads me on to the second point.

2)      Don’t be afraid

But I don’t think I can paint well.

You’d surprise yourself if you try, I certainly did given I’ve never painted a mini before! There are loads of tutorials out there and trust me, I spent hours upon hours reading these, trying things out as I went along. And since you’re reading a T4G article, you’re already on the right track!

I’d rather just dip the miniature.

There’s nothing wrong with dips or washes, especially if there’s lots of recessed areas and details. It gives a great result straight away, but don’t stop there. Add the next highlight, make the mini really pop. You’re not going to ruin it.

(I think painting Brets with all the flat surfaces really forced me to improve quickly. The usual basecoat and wash method leaves it looking dirty, so I was forced to practise layering and blending, building up contrast using alternative methods.)


But flat surfaces with little detail is still a nightmare!

Think of it as a canvas where you can go wild. Patterns often give an illusionary effect that means you don’t need as much shadows and highlights.


I still think my freehand is weak due to my shaky control, but with methods like Addition+Subtraction, you can work out a simple design which people immediately admire.

Also, painting tricky miniatures is like throwing yourself in the deep end – you’re bound to improve much faster. Same goes with gaming, don’t play chumps and be happy with wins, play against better opponents and learn from your losses.

3)      Planning

Now, this is probably a huge part of nabbing those nominations/prizes. I initially thought I would just be a casual gamer and rushed into building/painting my army. If I could re-do it again, I’d have taken a step back and really plan it out.

A good place to start would be a theme and the colour scheme to go with it.

Army painting is very different from painting a single model for display. Cohesion is key and a strong theme done in a well-thought out colour scheme will catch the eye far more than technical painting.

With my Brets, I had a rough theme in mind. The Verdant Guard were protectors of the sacred sites of Bretonnia, which were glades and forests since the Lady was closely linked to nature and the Fey.  I started off with green, earthy tones and then diverged into various greens to mix it up. So far, so good.

In my mind, it was fluffy to have Errants from other regions assist the Guard, and these I painted in the varying colour schemes of Bretonnia.  However, what works in your head may not work in practice and you can’t be constantly explaining your fluff to everyone. It needs to jump out at you just by looking at it. If this were any other army, I’d be doomed as the two are not cohesive!


I’m lucky that Brets work as a rainbow mess, but I do feel that it’s not everyone’s cup of tea. It’s why I’m currently working on expanding my collection so that eventually I can field a pure Verdant Guard, charging out from the leafy groves, as well as the King’s host, with knights from all across the land.

As for colour scheme, get as many references as you can, look at the colour wheel, play around with combinations and work some test models before committing. Try to avoid the official colour schemes as you’ll always be compared, and go for something unique!


Now that you’ve got a theme, get the basing right. Faces and bases – a mantra I’ve been taught but kinda failed to follow. While simple, the common sand & static grass just isn’t enough these days. There’s loads of options to choose from and you can even use scenic bases if you have the cash to spare.

The basing should either accentuate the theme or be used as a contrasting point. It should have enough detail to make it interesting, but not too much that it becomes overly cluttered and detracts from the miniature.

There are loads of tutorials out there, but here’s a link to Andy’s and Andrew’s here on T4G. My advice is to test out a basing scheme together with your colour scheme before you progress any further.


Guess that’s enough for Part 1 – stay tuned for the next instalment where I’ll discuss further things you should do in your quest to create a great army!


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The Thunderous Herd – Part 1

Well hello there.

Right this is the start of a new fantasy army project, though I will be approaching it a little differently to how I usually do. Previously I’d go out and buy the whole army and build the lot of it before even thinking about adding any paint, this time I will be doing things a little differently.

I will be buying 1 unit at a time and then spend more time to complete it before moving on the next. This will probably mean the force will take longer to collect but the end result should be successful. I don’t think I can think of any disadvantages in doing the force in this way, but the only one that does come to mind will be the colour variations that will happen within the schemes and possibly the style of painting on different miniatures. But we shall see once I get started.

Right I have decided I wanted to build a fun list, that yes, will get smashed when I do play with it, but that is the challenge? By the time I do finish the force there will probably even be a new edition of Warhammer out (that’s a whole new conversation) and I’ll have to change everything but I’ll let you see the list in the future. For no here is the first model to join the army, a Stegadon:

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I love the Lizardmen, it was the army that got me in to the hobby in the first place, my first purchase was the Saurus paint set around 14-15 years ago then my collection built from there. Even though the most recent Stegadon model is big and awesome I feel it is a little static so I converted it to look like it was rearing up to slam it’s head in to it’s foe. There is still a lot of green stuff work to do on this guy but he is nearly there.

That’s it for now, he should be ready for painting by the weekend so I will let you see the finished model before he gets primed, and painted.

Thanks for reading.
Andy – @Praetoriian

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